Can you mitre tiles

Painting Bullnose Corners. How to handle corners on tiled 3 sided fireplace surround. Bathroom: use finished tile edge or bullnose. Advice on how to install tile on wall edges that are already bullnose. This is a glazed porcelain tile, so I don't think the edge can be eased or softened in any way. It's too late to change to another material for the room -- and we don't really want to, either. I suppose we could look for an entirely different material for the niche, but that would still leave us a sharp wall edge where I do think people could bump it and hurt themselves.

Here's a sketch of the room, with the corner I'm questioning in the red square:. The installer is not a full-time "tile guy" by trade; he's a GC who does very good, detail-oriented work.

He did our kitchen with great results, and we've seen photos of several recent bathroom tile projects he's done. He said he certainly could miter the tiles e. The tile shop owner isn't being lazy about ordering; in fact, he's a direct importer and wholesaler of some tiles, including the one we're using here. He checked, and he's got about 70 bullnose tiles in his warehouse -- so quantity or odd lots aren't the issue.

I think he just suggested mitering because in his mind it gives a cleaner look. I'll go back and talk to him about the sharp corner concern to see if he has any suggestions for this tile which would reduce the sharpness; otherwise, I'd be inclined to use bullnose tiles for the one wall junction and the tub niche.

Thanks for your input as well, Bill. I was typing my first reply to Mongo when you posted, so I didn't see your reply until later. You've both helped convince me to go the bullnose route. I don't want sharp, I don't want fragile. And the bullnose approach seems less likely to have complications.

I'm in the process of tiling two 12" x 12" niches in a tub surround. The tile is 7" x 7" Crossville porcelain with micro-beveled edges approx. For the outside corners, I've mitered the back of the tiles up to the edge of the micro-bevel. My questions are: In your previous post, you say you prefer that the grout lines on outside mitered corners be as small as possible.

Can the edges of the two tiles forming the corner be set against each other so that there is no grout line? Also, any recommendations on setting the tile in outside mitered corners would be appreciated. I plan to insert tile spacers in the grout line and use tape to hold everything in place. If bullnose tiles aren't available, and you don't want the mitred corners, you can always go the Schluter bullnose profile route. I believe Bill has some pics of them in use somewhere.

They're not my style, but you may like them. Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter Rondec. One day I may get around to posting photos of those 8' lengths, cut to make corners; it saves you the money of buying the small corner piece, and it looks clean. I have bought a lot of that same one shown above, the AK color and finish. One day I may get around to posting photos of that. Our tile guy is pushing for mitered corner instead of bullnose.

He assured me it wouldn't be sharp and I would like the look much better in the end. He will be doing what davidro1 said.. I will post a pic when he's finished. This way the back wall gets tiled and you don't look at the row of cut tiles or factory edges when looking at this detail. Bill answered the question. You need something between the mitered edges, they can't float next to one another. In the photo below, these are faux-slate solid body ceramic tiles, so I eased the edge just a bit with a carborundum stone.

They're gapped a bit and grout was worked into the joint, so it's a very slightly eased corner. Still a strong 90, but not sharp. I then colored the grout within the miter to match the color of the tile. The seam is truly invisible, it looks like a solid block of John, we're planning to tile all the walls to the ceiling.

Yes the drawing is to scale. The bathroom is 8' long, the tub area is 60"x32", if that helps. And if you could post a picture of what you're describing, it would be a great help, because I'm not quite understanding. While I was thinking about how this would look with a bullnose tile, I realized I hadn't tried to visualize how the tile would lay out on the tub alcove wall. Here's my guess at how it could be done:. If we used a bullnose on the left edge, where this wall meets the wall behind the door see diagram several posts up in this thread , and on the right side cut tile to the same 3" wide size, that comes to about That seems to me like it would work well.

I know the "13x13" tiles may not be precisely 13" -- I have to go check their exact size -- but is this the right idea? Or would you lay it out differently? Nice work Doug, Guess I'm gonna get myself a wet saw, any advice.? I use the norton clipper em for my mitres.

The whole table will tilt to achieve the angle and works well. Much better than the flimsy ramp thing on the plasplugs. It's a relatively cheap cutter but is performing really well so far. Post reply. Insert quotes…. Similar threads S. Question Contractor installing 24x24 hexagonal tile on wall spot dabbing. Replies 2 Views Oct 15, Joy Question Plain gloss white wall tiles question.

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Question Ceramic wall tiles joining resin floor. Jul 31, Silverback. Latest 10 Z. US Tile Forum. Would you grout these split face porcelain tiles? Forum Rules. What method is being used mostly these days? What are Houzz members thoughts on this? Aluminium strips or mitred edges? Bathroom window covering. Help deciding on grout colour for bathroom, with 3D textured tiles. Mixing Black and Chrome in the bathroom.

Bathroom Transition. I like mitred edges and my poor non trade husband has just done two bathrooms for me! I suspect that strips are a bit too easy How do you finish the tiles without an architrave around the door?

What would the tile butt up against. Depending on your other doors you can fit architrave and tile up to it, thats quite neat. OR tile to a strip edge similar to but different from the window edging this comes in white which is also neat and tidy or I went with white aluminium strips so that they blend into the white tiles.

Maybe you could replace your silver aluminium strips? Mitring tiles looks great but in reality aluminium strips will be more resistant and hardwearing Aluminium L shape angles are great if you want it to last ;. Whatever happened to bullnose tiles, corner trim tiles etc? It seems that outside Oz you can get tiles that i design to be on the corner. I'm having the same frustration of not really wanting fat silver trims when the taps etc are black. Yes i could get painted trims, but realistically how long is the paint going to stay on.

Hmmm, interesting When I first saw it, I was very impressed as it suited the modern design of the house perfectly. I complimented the tilers on it. I didn't know it was possibly just the simpler option and the norm, rather than the thoughtfully considered finish I thought! Still, in our house it looks great and I wouldn't change it, but I am sorry it's disappointing you and I hope you find a remedy. Hi there - exactly the same thing happened to us and I was devastated to see the aluminum strip.

So disappointing when you pay so much for a new bathroom. Can you tell me whether you ended up painting over the strips? I'd love to hear what you ended up doing and how it looks, four years on. My sister says she is sure we can paint over them. But I"m so disappointed as it's not the look we were after. We are stuck with our bathroom company who are also doing our bigger downstairs bathroom so at least I can make sure they use white edging around our window.

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